The country I thought that would be rather civilized and wealthy, in fact looks like the ghetto. Side stares are thrown, not smiles. People in Belize City seem to be looking to make a quick buck in any way they can. I didn't feel safe as I have in the previous cities and towns.
I slept most of the ride from San Jose to Caye Caulker via Belize City. Today is the day before our tour leader's birthday (Sid) so we've decided that we would celebrate it tonight once we get in so that he could relax on his actual day of birth.
In Belize city waiting for our water taxi to come in, we were in the waiting area with not much to do. I thought it would be a good idea to stroll around the premises as we wait to see what there is to see, taste what there is to taste, and meet who's there to meet. Even though i was scared of my surroundings, i insisted i give it a shot. I was visually scanning at all times making sure i was aware of my surroundings as much as possible. With only 2BZ (Belizean dollars) in my pocket, i couldn't get far. On my walk, i managed to meet a local who gave me a quick lesson on how to speak Creole. Basically any word that ended with an "er" would now end with an "a" instead. For example, you wouldn't say mother...it would be motha...fucker would be fucka...mother fucker would be motha fucka.
After my quick stroll up and down the street, i went back into the waiting terminal for the taxi where i was befriended by a local Belizean. To make a long story short, he was trying to sell me marijuana. I strung him along with absolutely no intention of buying from him. As it turns out, security was watching me. Before loading onto the water taxi, security came up to me and tapped me on the shoulder with a pair handcuffs. He warned me not to buy anything of that nature from anybody or else it would be a different story. I explained that with 2BZ, there wasn't much that i would be able to buy anyways, and i got onto the boat.
We walked along the shores to our hotel. Once we settled into our rooms, we crossed the little beach street and over to the on-the-shore restaurant where they were playing good island music. While we were eating lunch by the beach, i went to where the DJ was and requested the speakers to be turned up. We finished our meals and headed towards our hotel but i made sure i stopped by to speak with the DJ.
His name is Smiley and he works for the restaurant. He was a flirty guy who was offering to be of service should we need anything. He boasted as the trusted guy in the island, a guy who the police can't touch. I told him I would see him later if i needed anything and went along.
This night, the group slowly got ready while tossing back a giant bottle of Flore de Cana which was generously donated by Ashley. She decided she wouldn't partake in the festivities but she gave us the bottle to destroy anyhow. Slowly but surely, the group started getting sauced. Soon, the search for the herbal was on. Remembering the words of my new found friend earlier, I made my way across the beach path to the restaurant to find Smiley. Sure enough, they were having their own pre-party. I presented him with 5BZ (equivalent to $2.50CAD) and told him that's all i have in exchange for an herbal stick. He was flirty from the beginning so i knew i had a bit of an advantage. At this point, i was taking it. He rolled it up in a cigar leaf for me. Feeling somewhat obligated to hang with him, i invited him to come up to our balcony for a drink. He pre-partied with us. Sid took me into his room to make sure i was ok. I assured him i was sober still...but in fact, i wasn't. Doesn't mean that i was stupid, this just means i was drunk.
A couple more of Sid's tour-leader friends came up to the balcony to drink and do the countdown for his day of birth. Past midnight, we decided to head out to a club. Smiley came along. At this point, i was already in a magical place in my head. The group partied as i chilled by the bar.
Soon, after noticing that all i was doing was noticing (rather than partaking), i decided that i needed a pep talk with the mirror in the washroom. I gave the spill and my reflection listened carefully.
I walked out of the washroom and an image stared back the moment i exited. In order to protect his privacy, we'll call him James. James didn't look like anyone else in Belize. He is a mix of cultures, tall, had dreadlocks, and had a friendly smile. He has spent the majority of his life in San Diego and has only been living in Belize for the last 3 months. He would be a beginner rastaa...or a rastaa in training, if you will.
There were cameras pointed towards the dance floor and TV's projecting the images along the back of the bar. It was intimidating to hit the dance floor while everyone (the group included) were watching but with enough beverages and an alluring smile, James had lured me on to dance to some reggaeton.
As it turns out, he's a scuba/snorkel instructor for the company i had booked a tour with earlier today. I was already contemplating cancelling my full day of snorkeling for the next day, but this pushed me to the edge and i was certain i would cancel early next morning. He told me to cancel and we would go on our own tour. Knowing very well i wouldn't do this...i said yes anyways and we continued to dance.
One of the other tour-leaders had tried to pull me away to dance with him instead and i entertained it for a bit only to go back to James within the next minute. I spent the majority of my time with James.
The next morning, stares from the locals were thrown at me as if I had done something wrong. I found the group at the restaurant across the hotel eating breakfast. They were hearing rumours too. I got into my room and took a shower and tried to get ready for the day. Everyone headed for their full day of snorkeling. I stayed behind to write at the restaurant. I hung out with Smiley and we talked and talked all day. He took me to the other side of the split. I was aware of his intentions, but I'm too well aware of how to handle myself to let anything happen. Even though I had only known Smiley for a day and a half at most, i learned a lot about my self (rather, my insecurities) from him. Sometimes it takes a complete stranger to pull off the masks we hide ourselves with. I was at a vulnerable state. The fact that a complete stranger was having "moment of truths" with me was making my mind whirr so much that i thought i wasn't thinking at all at certain moments.
We walked back to the hotel and i parted ways with him with the promise of seeing him later that night to celebrate Sid's birthday. I didn't go back to my room, rather i went to a nearby dock. I sat there and watched a man fish with his two dogs. I watched and he noticed me watching but i didn't care, i decided to not flip the channel and i continued to watch.
I headed back to my room before the group got back. I tried to get some sleep before Deborah came in to tell me all the fantastic things they've seen during snorkeling. Once she got in (and i may have gotten all 20 minutes of a nap) sure enough, she was telling me how great it was. Instead of going on though, she changed it back to me and asked me how my night/morning was. Soon Ashley was in our room and we were having girl talk.
Girl talk came to an end as the group decided to get together for a birthday dinner with Sid. We had fantastic Red Snappers and Lobster. It hit the spot.
On our walk back to the hotel, i walked with Sid. I confided in him and he was a good friend to listen indeed. There we were standing at the front of the hotel, just me and him talking. To the other side of us was the restaurant Smiley works at where we were expected to come party.
I wished Sid a happy birthday and said goodnight...headed to my room to sleep Belize off.
Even though I didn't do any tours this day; even though I stayed behind, i still feel that i'm going somewhere...that i'm getting there...that i've gotten something.
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